Cutch

Cutch (Latin: Acacia catechu) is widely used in Asia, especially in India, where it even lends its name to an entire state. Also recognized as catechu, cachou, or cutchtree, it holds significant cultural importance in India. The term 'khak' in India signifies earth and dust, making this dye ideal for achieving a range of rich earthly tones, including reddish-brown, nut brown, and cinnamon. Cutch is rich in tannins and other dyes, offering excellent resistance to washing and light. Moreover, it is incredibly user-friendly, suitable for both novices and experienced dyers, as it can be used without mordants, and a small amount goes a long way, opening up endless possibilities. Textiles dyed with this plant also exhibit antibacterial properties.

Name: cutch

Latin name: Acacia catechu

Other names: catechu, cachou, cutchtree, khair, katha

Type: mordant dye, no-mordant dye

Part of plant used: the core of the Acacia catechu tree

Main colorant: red-brown tannin catechin which belongs in the catechic tannins class plus other tannins and flavonoids

Main colors: various shades of brown

Other colors: terracotta, tan, orange, cinnamon, brick, chocolate brown, and similar earthy shades

Purpose: natural dye for textiles, leather, wood, candles, and other natural materials. Can be used for making botanical inks, pastels, watercolors, printing paste, etc. 

Dyeing with cutch:

• Use 15-30 % WOF. You can use less for lighter shades and a bit more for darker shades.

• Pour hot water over the powder and stir well. The substance may be thick and sticky at first.

• Raise temperature to 70-90°C and simmer from 1 to 3 hours, depending on the desired colors. Let it cool. Longer simmering in higher produces deeper, darker colors.

• Usually cutch dissolves in water quite well so there is no need to strain the liquid.

• Fibers, whether pre-mordanted or unmordanted, should be soaked in water for at least 30 minutes before adding to the dye solution. Cutch gives more pinkish and reddish tones to white unmordanted fibers while alum mordanted fibers take up more brownish tones. Fibers mordanted with iron dye in a gorgeous deep brown color.

• Immerse fibers in the cutch solution and simmer for 40-60 minutes or longer, depending on the desired shade. Allow the solution to cool. You may simmer and soak longer if you wish to get deep, dark tones.

• Experiment with additional iron mordant, pH variations, or soak in a soda ash solution to get more shades.

• The advice above can also be applied to another similar plant, the thorny acacia (Latin: Acacia nilotica).

Dye production:

The dye is derived from the core of the Acacia catechu tree, finely ground and boiled until it transforms into a thick syrup-like substance. This liquid is then spread on a mat to dry and is delivered to us in the form of powder or granules.